Tip's for starting your two cycle fuel-injection engine.


(1) Check to make sure that the cork float inside the fuel reservoir is in good shape. No one reproduces the cork floats so if your float is in bad shape then you may have to buy cork and make your own. Old cork will need to be re-sealed if you are using gasoline with ethanol in it. Sealers that have been used include :  PVC pipe glue, fuel tank sealer, Light coat of 2 part epoxy glue. 

(2) Make sure top on fuel reservoir is sealing tight. 

(3) Use gasoline to start your engine for the first time. you can try kerosene, etc.. later after you know the engine is running correctly. 

(4) Fill fuel reservoir to the top of float with gas before trying to start engine. 

(5) You may have to prime engine with gas to get it started, use primer cup valve on side of cylinder. 

(6) If you have a two piece reservoir/injector, the reservoir height should be adjusted so that the fuel level in the reservoir is on the center line of the .075 thousands hole in the injector nozzle. 
Follow steps A & B below.
(
A) Set fuel level in reservoir first:  Add fuel in reservoir until float ball needle has seated in the up direction. A squirt bottle works good for this and will allow you to add a little fuel at a time. Once the ball needle has seated up then the fuel is at the correct height. Use a black marker and mark the fuel height on the outside of reservoir then drain fuel from reservoir.
(B) The black mark should line up to the center line of the .075 thousands hole in the injector nozzle. If not you will have to remove the reservoir from the engine and then adjust reservoir up or down on the thread which ever is required.
If the reservoir height is set to high your engine may flood with gas. If the reservoir height is set to low your engine may not receive gas. This is a pain to adjust and there is a little bit of guess work involved but it must be set fairly close.

(7) Make sure check ball and check needle ball on bottom of fuel reservoir are not gummed up and are working correctly.

(8)
Springs on air-intake valve and governor weight. If you had to replace these springs you may have trouble getting your engine to run. They have to be the correct size and adjusted to the correct tension in order for the engine to run. Trial & error is about the only way to do this. On the air intake valve if you have to stiff of a spring then it is not going to let air in the crankcase there for you are not going to get any fuel. To light of a spring on the air-intake valve and the engine gets to much air and to much fuel, caution! engine could try to run away. Be ready to pull spark wire off, disconnect battery or open switch on timer lever. If the governor spring has to much tension then the governor will not kick in to slow the speed down. If to light of a spring is used then the engine may run faster. You sorta have to find a balance between the governor spring and the spring on your air intake valve. Adjusting Air Intake Valve: When the nut on the air-intake valve is adjusted clockwise more tension is put on the valve allowing less air to enter into the crank case there fore lower crank case pressure, lower fuel pressure, lower RPM. If the nut on the air-intake valve is turned counter clockwise the tension on the valve is decreased allowing more air to enter into the crank case there fore more air pressure is created more fuel pressure and in return more RPM.

(9) When starting your engine for the first time I recommend setting the timer lever to vertical position 12 a clock and turning the engine through compression quickly. Once you know your engine is running good and you have learned where your mixter & governor settings should be then you can try to bump start the engine.

(10) Your timer lever also controls the speed of your engine. Always remember this, which ever direction the flywheels are turning if you move the lever in the same direction the engine rpm will slow down. Move the lever opposite direction to speed the engine rpm up.

(11)  (Bump Starting) Position of timing lever for starting engine. See starting instructions shown below and diagrams from figure #4 and figure #5.  In these diagrams the (A) arrow is the direction you want the engine to run. The (B) arrow is the direction you turn the flywheel to bump against compression. 

(12) Use hard grease on main bearings, This helps to seal in crank case pressure so fuel injection system works correctly. 

(13) Do not run engine with out water cooling tank attached and full of water. Remember this is a two cycle engine it gets hot very fast.

(14) Before trying to run your engine check the oil ring disk inside the crankcase for rust holes. These disk have a rolled lip on the outer diameter for collecting oil from the drip oiler and centrifugally sending it to the outer lip of the disk and through a hole into the lower con rod bearing. If there are rust holes in the disk then the oil may never make it to the lower con-rod which could result in damaging the lower con-rod bearing. The disk is made out of thin sheet metal and often gets rust holes if the engine has been setting for years. You will have to disassemble the crankshaft out of the crankcase to check this.


(15)  Make sure the drip oiler lines are connected to the correct ports. (See Detroit photo section). Make sure the drip oiler/oilers have a check balls installed. This allows the lubrication and fuel injection systems to work correctly by keeping crank case pressure from escaping and blowing oil and air back up the lines into the drip oiler. Using two cycle oil in your drip oiler will not carbon the spark plug as bad as using regular oil. 

(16) If you run your engine exceptionally slow (200-300 rpm) you may get air blow back from the crank case in your oiler because there is not enough pressure and suction to make the check balls work correctly in your drip oiler as a result your engine may not receive proper lubrication. I mix two cycle oil with my gas at a ratio of 100 to 1 for all my two cycle engines I run at the shows and I also use the drip oilers. I run my engines very slow under no load. If you are going to put your engine under load such as in a boat, etc. you probably will want to run more oil in your mix like (50:1 or 30:1) It's better to be safe then sorry.  I still like to use the drip oiler to lubricate the lower con-rod bearing. I would also use the drip oiler to lubricate the cylinder and upper con-rod bearing. 

(17) If you have trouble with engine not wanting to start and engine appears to be flooded try draining excess gas and oil from the crank case drain. This may  help your problem. If you let the engine set over night or longer you will want to drain the excess oil & fuel from the crankcase before trying to start the engine. If you do not do this the engine may not start and if by chance it does start it will blow blue smoke really bad.

(18) To start your engine on kerosene fill main tank with kerosene. Fill fuel reservoir to the top of float with gas. This will allow the engine to warm up a little before switching over. You can also run the engine on kerosene just by using gasoline as a starter in the primer cup that's located on the cylinder.

(19) Most important is Patients!  If you have completely disassembled your engine for restoration chances are there are going to be some problems in getting it started for the first time. If you have problems with your engine that you can not figure out, email me and I will try to help you.
mazak@rocketmail.com

                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Hard grease can be purchased through  Opti-Lube Severe Service Lubricants.

Toll Free: 1-888-326-6789
   Fax: 1-888-326-4826   Outside the USA: 505-326-1234
www.hardgrease.com

I use the Opti-Lube Lithium Block Grease Second one on their list, $4.97 a pound.
Their tech person recommended this type to me and I have had no problems, works great.
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Detroit buzz coils reproduced by John Regan (
piewagon@gmail.com).

 

The information below was copied from a 1915 operating manual. 
Detroit Stationary Engines














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